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[ You can use the two top pictures(crop cut-outs) in this page too understand if your screen is too bright or dark! ]

[ If the processed image has little to no difference against the Original unprocessed your screen is TOO DARK! ]

[ If the original pictures' shadow area in the central background scenery appears view-able much alike the processed, then your screen is TOO BRIGHT! ]

The SidewinderPhotoColourBalancer F1-C17 meta-fix user "16 Bands of RGB filters(colour balance)" (quick)Tutorial

[note: when applying the colour filter with the apply button never set the value beyond "5" for darkened shadow areas , only because that will be the maximum the sector can take without colour distortion damage].
That said, let's take a look

This is a simple (quick)tutorial to show how to use the RGB filters to brighten shade and shadow in a picture.
Dark areas of photos do not hold their colour value well when lifted by any dark/bright system
(except in specialist actions, never brighten a photo more than a value of "15" in 24 bit RGB).
In some special circumstance exposure correction is done using special brightening system that is different to brighter darker.
What will be used here is both exposure correction(gamma/mid tone) because the picture is finally too underexposed, and also a special filter system Sidewinder has to raise shadow "a little".

Original unprocessed Image
 sidewinderF1C17metafixTutorial  
16 band RGB-filter post Processed Image
 sidewinderF1C17metafixTutorial 


1. From examining the original image, it is obvious the background landscape shadowed area cannot be seen well.
There are two distinct contrasts of lighting level in the photo, a. a sunshiney day , b. a dark overcast shadow in background scenery making a third of the image.
sidewinderF1C17metafixTutorial


2. The Hue Board is opened to access the colour balance 16 band filters the "top slider" is the coresponds the brightest pixels or colour in a pixel in the image, the "bottom slider" lowest the darkest pixels or colour in a pixel.
The RGB filter "colour" to operate on is then set to white by the checkbox at the top of the pane (there are four check-boxes red , green , blue and "white"-bright/dark). The combo box drop down list to the left of the boxes controls whether that is input to the image raised(UP) or lowered(DOWN).


3. One of the filter bands slider alone is then pushed over to the opposite side to maximise the effect on pixels in parts of the "TEST-Hue Board image" where that brightness level is located.
As can be seen here, there is a large quantity of greying in trees in thehue-board test image through the shadowed landscape.
The fore-ground trees also have this excessive effect upon them.
At this point it is a good idea to understand that when brightening a colour or simply brightening, a value of no more than 5 maximum on an image is worth anything, it will only be damaging to input anything more actually (*the sliders at some time in another version to be made may be smaller and shorter and only have six setting 1-5 and 30 to be excessive for overloading the pixels to view in the test image).
Most photographic images in their best quality can only be shifted by a value of 5 (in 24bit RGB), particularly in scenery contrasted by bright sunlight and sever large shade/shadow area.
Because this greying is present in abundance on the pixels in areas of the picture wanted to improve(shadowed landscape) then we know it is somewhere in the level we want with other filter sliders.


4. The filter that was found is now shifted back to a position with the value "1" to act as a book marker for the found band level.
The test image is returned to normal (near normal there is "1" thing...) by another click on the "Try" button because there is little input value set on the slider(most of them zero "0" - does nothing for that one in test or apply).


5. Because what is wanted found is dark, the next slider below is tried.
It has a better(more exagerated and obvious) result on the test image, but foreground tree leaf colours are heavily affected too.
Not to worry, it will not be much more than "4" pushed up to affect the band areas.


6. A conservative decision of "4" is made


7. Other much darker more useless colour will be lifted trivially against quality level(will not be affected much either).


8. The final result, "a tweak" in the areas of landscape shadow. The overall picture is a little drab and dark and will benefit from mid-tone/gamma(Exposure correction).


9. Time to tweak the gamma up, there are clouds, and the effect is to improve visibility through the picture but "keep" its natural aspect, that means keeping as much cloud as possible normal, so only the very first setting is used.


10. The Apply button is clicked.


11. The final result a brighter image all through.


12. There is a minor detail of red in the image being too intense in parts suitable to the RGB "red" set but this will "green" through the picture to take red down by normal balancer controls by "3".


13. Setting the balancer control to take brightness through the picture down "3".


14. The final picture as shown at the top in the two cropped sections side by side.

The following three images are the photo from two different edits

P1. The first is the original (unedited)

P2. The second is the "natural" RGB FILTER ADJUSTMENT adjustment as above but with more bands and a value of "5" for main inputs brightening.

P3. The third is "sodomy" using RGB FILTER MURDER AND ARSON upon the picture over-enhance the colours!
Or simply put , an "unnatural" appearance, it required use of the green and red for most with the RGB filter system.

End of Tutorial.