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"Sidewinder is now F3" and now has standard normal contrast also aside to Gamma Radiance contrast that F2 had
Sidewinder Photo Colour Balancer F1 C-17 meta-fix
[ You can use this page too understand if your "screen is too bright"! ]
[ If you "cannot see the clouds(mid to top-right of image) reasonably or properly in the last image" at the bottom of this page , then your screen is TOO BRIGHT! ]
(NOTE: monitor/screens have in some internal PGP programs "pre-set" monitor combinations of colour-contrast-brightness, many may not operate well(e.g. "Gaming pre-set") - usually that can be changed by the self installing monitor software to be set to a normal group of settings on boot)
GUI Visual TUTORIAL for "Contrast operation"
NOTE: In a normal computer(4GB and above) When you click the White(brightening/darkening) button or the Gamma/mid-tone button, with a 16 mega-pixel photo, the Sidewinder editor is doing
48 million, double precision, four decimal place, floating point arithmetic equations, in under 10 seconds,
and 64 million of these if you click the button for Contrast!
There are now more notches in F3 for finer colour tuning on the Gamma and Contrast.
NOTE (slight bug in F2 and F3); To activate the notch level numbers requires "mouse down button on the slider before moving it".
To achieve the same levels as F2 for some jobs such as exposure correction with the "tip" in the contrast tutorial, consider the notches have changed in this version but can be found with adherence to the difference between F2 and F3 in the below short table following for the level notch placings.
default = 1.0501
1st notch = 1.1001
2nd notch = 1.1501
3rd notch = 1.2001
default = 0.9590
1st notch = 0.9090
2nd notch = 0.8711
3rd notch = 0.8332
8th notch = 1.2001
8th notch = 0.8332
For outdoor photos particularly if color "does not balance perfectly because of gamma bright or dark appearance "AS CONTRAST"" and/of some color-level in the photo too perhaps,
USE the "gamma-contrast (both checked)" to reduce brightness THEN USE "gamma" (checked) alone "to near perfectly create brightness(exposure)" and depth of colour in the photo, THEN continue fine tuning color-balance and THEN do final bright-dark.
TYPICALLY, photos are too high contrast,
bring the gamma-contrast (both checked) "down", (first effect of "down" with the setting slider on the second notch) 4 times at the default notch (far left) then brighten to correct level using "gamma" (checked alone).
If you use "gamma-contrast up" after use, use "brightness(white) control DOWN" to adjust brightness, HOWEVER, because the "contrast-up" system is a violent algorithm at this time, it is suggested with photos you only use the "default level notch setting (first)" to commit "contrast-up".
Note: For Black and White (B&W) photos,
Applying a "contrast-up" operation on a "converted to B&W colour photo" can be assisted back down to a more normal brightness by using "gamma-down" operation(NOT contrast-down) with "the default level notch of the Hue board"(check the box for "gamma" only, not both).
1. "check both gamma and contrast box" on the Hue Board.
2. Be sure to "NOT adjust" the level of the slider for gamma/contrast, so it is at default setting.
3. Commit the "contrast up" operation.
4. Re-open the Hue Board and "ONLY check the gamma box".
5. Be sure to "NOT adjust" the level of the slider for gamma/contrast, so it is at default setting.
6. Select the "down" word from the gamma/contrast "drop down list" beside the check boxes for gamma/contrast.
7. Commit a single operation of the gamma down.
8. Use the bright/dark system (white) to adjust to correct brightness of picture.
9. If that did not readjust the photo brightness for B&W corresponding a sufficient detail of image appearance, repeat the gamma down process a second time after raising the brightness by 10 above the normal appearance, then retry brightness.
Only two actions of gamma-down in this process are usually considered correct, However, feel free to experiment.
Gamma and contrast are an "effect" numerically, so there is no given known result in exact detail, so therefore "editing".
Using contrast in the editor requires to understand that "all is not what it seems" when the Hue Board "TEST" and "APPLY" buttons are clicked.
In this quick visual walk-through the contrast will be raised in an image resulting in a totally white area in the sky region.
When the complete set of process steps are finished the picture will be returned to a normal processed state.
note: Usually contrast in a digital photo is put "up" , in any case it usually only requires one of "the first three values "on the slider" 1.10 , 1.20 or 1.30
1. Open the Hue Board check both the gamma(RGB as unticked) and the contrast checkbox,
also select whether you want contrast "UP" or "DOWN".
2.select from the "bottom slider only" the level you wish to raise contrast.
Then press test.
There is a massive difference to what contrast of the same level of "this out-door photo" will show compared to an "ordinary indoor photo" with the contrast!
All the clouds and sky in the photo are gone and there is only white.
Its all part of the Sidewinder contrasting process that is not properly visibly showing at this stage, there will be a little more to do when it has been set.
3. Apply the setting to the main editing photo by pressing the "Apply" button.
4. The Hue Board will automatically close when the application of contrast on the main editing image has finished.
5. IMPORTANT. When contrast is raised(in many photos) there is a large quantity of white(bright) area with what appears to be no image data.
To re access this missing data and bring back the picture:
You must now bring the brightness(white UP/DOWN controls) down - Usually anything from 20 down , to 60 down.
This next pic shows the drop down list for white (brightness) being set to 30 down
6. Now apply the setting by pressing the white "down" button.
7. The image data will take some small time, around 10 seconds (fair to good RAM size) - 30 seconds (old small RAM size) to process.
8. On completion the editor replaces the picture to the processed version and the white areas have their visible data back in place with the contrast raised.
No, it is not a brightening then darkening trick (these pics are a quick example of the process)!
Set the level of brightness of your photo to what you think is effective.
The image pixel intensities have been comparatively changed in an algorithm, that while mathematically relative to computed image values is also considered more of an effect than e.g. Exposure Correction(gamma or mid-tone).
NOTE: Another 20 to 30 down is required in this photo!
End of Tutorial